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I fall for you

I’ve only got a dial-up connection here at Susanne’s folks’ house, so no pictures in this post today, but no worries, I’ll get those caughts up Sunday night. Hopefully my way with words will paint the picture adequately enough.

It took some time yesterday night, after pulling into the garish yet luxurious casino to figure out that we actually wanted to get out of our hotel room and take a walk around the hotel. Stretching my legs, even with my bum knee, was too rife with promise to stay put, and the shoddy WiFi connection too frustrating to endure. (Actually, I think the Hampton Inn chain has had the best free WiFi of any hotel I’ve visited.)

It had been a long time since I’d been anywhere near a casino, unless you count the two times I was in the Las Vegas airport in 2005, and I wouldn’t call a bank of slot machines a “casino” per se. But I certainly clocked in my time as a kid when we made regular trips to Atlantic City–even though most of my time was spent in the video game arcades, or having lunch on a comp ticket, I still walked through on occassion with my parents, even bumping into Ivana Trump once. Literally. I still think about suing her for damages sometimes. Damn statutes of limitations!

This walk was no different. I had forgotten the way that cigarette smoke clings to one’s clothes, hair, and skin like an old man at the end of visiting hours in the nursing home, all desperate to be attached to something, any passing swatch of fabric. You have to hit every inch of yourself with soap in the shower because all of the gaps will still reek of lit tobacco. It’s so entirely unappealing to me. The sounds of the slots are almost deafening in their intensity, and irritating in their insistancy that you pay attention to this machine, no that machine, no that other shiny sparkling machine. There were only a few blackjack tables, one roulette wheel (always the worst odds in the house), and one craps table. Though many of the one-armed bandits will give you a pull for twenty-five cents you now must use a bill of some denomination to play. Trickery! I suppose I could assuage myself that at least some of what I would plunk in would benefit the residents of the reservation, but although I feel for their troubled history, I also have no real interest in gambling. And looking around at the people who were sparsely populating the facilty, they seemed to have no passion in it, either.

Despite these depressing surroundings, we were excited to be on our way and making progress. I personally was excited to see the falls the next day. We satisfied ourselves with some late night sweet potato fries–the bar was closed at midnight, which I found unbelievable–and turned in.

This morning the air was crisp like fall, but I wasn’t sure how long it would hold out. I got a groggy Dr. B in the shower and we made our way to the Niagara Falls park where after 3,289 steps (my knee loved every second of the climbing) we lurched onto the Maid of the Mist III, donned our souvenir parkas, and boated gaily forward–into a stinky haze of seagull excrement and whatever the Great Lakes had thrown over the side of the precipice. Seriously, it was incredible! The American side of the falls, while 20m taller than the Canadian side, cascaded more gracefully and quietly, so turning into the horseshoe  falls in Canada was breathtaking. The falls pounded away in a wide, encompassing curtain of froth and fury, twinkling near the top in the early morning sun like strings of blue-green crystals, then seeming angry in the middle as water morphed into foam, and finally thundering at the bottom, the loudest bass I’d ever heard outside the 9:30 Club in DC. Hell, it was louder than the 9:30 Club. It was wet and wild and I enjoyed thoroughly every second of it. We got some German tourists to take our picture. We climbed back into the car, making our way into Canada, across Ontario (they have more farms than I realized), and back into the US. Coming across the Rainbow Bridge took an hour — I never thought I’d curse a bridge more than I’ve hexed the Delaware Memorial Bridge or the GW Bridge, but now I have — and then we arrived at the ‘rents. Reception to follow at 2 tomorrow. More pictures to come.

I miss you all. We just tripped 1,006 miles getting here. Feels longer already, and I still feel like I’m just going on some crazy extended vacation.

As for the music…

Yesterday on the iPod:

Duran Duran, Decade

Jamie Cullum, Twentysomething

Bitter:Sweet, The Remix

Anna Nalik

Today on the iPod:

Zero 7, The Garden

Indigo Girls, Live

Dirty Vegas, One

Michael Buble

Eat, Pray, Love, book on CD

Empires tame and tacky

 

Emily and Jamie's cat Cindyrella

Emily and Jamie's cat Cindyrella

We started off today with a quiet cup of coffee with my sister Kathy on her porch. Well, rather, I started off today that way. The good doctor started off by getting some much needed sleep, having spent the past several nights up very late either packing or, in the case of last night, driving. We knew in advance there would only be one way to handle breakfast, by going to King’s in Newtown. This is a small building by the side of the road that is somewhat TARDIS like in its interior, with three separate rooms for dining and an outside gazebo. It features crazy, over the top meals like pumpkin spice and mascarpone-stuffed french toast, triple-decker burgers with all kinds of toppings, and absurdly good turkey gravy lovingly surrounding the most flaky, delicate biscuit you could ever sink your teeth into.

 

King's restaurant

King's restaurant

 

 

The problem with going to King’s, really, is the evil flag pole in Newtown. I suppose there are ways to get there without passing what is in fact, a car killing machine, not a symbol of patriotism, but it’s more fun to pass by it and snark about it. A recent Newtown transportation report said, “Because the Flagpole sits in the middle of a busy intersection with five roadway legs, it has been the site of many accidents, which tragically include fatalities.” The flagpole dates back to the late 1800s, and the current flagpole was erected in 1950. But dead people? Come on, residents of Newtown, let’s put something around this thing other than tiny green signs that read, “Keep Right.”

At any rate, the food is fantastic at King’s. Susanne ordered some Frankensteinian monstrosity of brunch cooking when she requested a cannoli cream-filled crepe that tasted amazing. I had the “Asparagus Lenny,” which was a creative way of saying ham, asparagus, and poached eggs with hollandaise sauce over English muffins. My nieces were nearly dismayed that anyone would choose to order something as disgusting as asparagus, but they pulled themselves together.

After breakfast we said our goodbyes and headed out, promising to visit again for Christmas.

New York is a big state, the Empire State, which basically means that all the drivers think the roads are for them to go as fast or slow as they like. There are also more angry bumper stickers out here than in most places–the jerk driver of the day today was a woman driving a small SUV with a hitch, and the hitch had a bad wheel that was wiggling as it went and, replete with the following message: If you hate logging use plastic toilet paper. Gee, I’ll have to make a note of that one. So it’s either . . . decimate our forest land and stress out endangered species and other wildlife . . . or wipe myself with Tupperware? Good to know those are mutually exclusive!

We drove across New York for 4 hours and into Syracuse, where we made a pit stop at my alma mater, Syracuse University, and I gave Susanne a somewhat frenetic tour of the campus, enough to show her the quad, memorial to the students killed on Pan Am 103 in 1988, and give her a sample of how ugly and far away the dorms (actually they’re delightfully called “residence halls”) are from the classrooms. We had some pizza at Cosmo’s, which is where I met my best buddy Lori, and there are only two changes to note from the last time I was there, one sad and one positively liberating–George, the pizza maker extraordinaire, who looked like Mel from Mel’s place, if he got caught in a taffy-pulling machine, has passed away, and the women waitstaff are no longer required to wear skirts or dresses. I’m happy to report that the pizza tastes exactly as I remembered it. I told the new pizza guy that he made it almost as well as George, and his response was, “well thank you, I sure hope so.” Lori’s former boss was there, a not-very pleasant lady who had a rather homophobic and short-sighted way of looking at life, and it was interesting to see that after all these years, she’s still in the same place, literally and figuratively, as if she built her own cell and locked herself right in. I’m not sure if she’s happy, but she’s never looked happy, I guess.

 

Bar stools Cosmo's Pizza in Syracuse

Bar stools at Cosmo's Pizza in Syracuse

We traveled on after our supper, getting back on the New York Thruway and cutting through small mountains, drumlins, and rich, green farmland. I took pictures of cows. I smelled the cows. Rather, I smelled what the cows made, but I know not to complain about the scent of cow manure, for I have also smelled pig manure, and wow, that is one of the worst smells I have ever encountered. It makes cow manure smell like Elizabeth Taylor’s latest perfume creation. Or maybe I have those reversed. Hmm.

Thruways and turnpikes and other toll roads are interesting inventions. Susanne made the point that out in Michigan there aren’t any toll roads because the residents pay taxes that support the infrastructure, but then they have to pay the toll to use the New York roads, too, even though that support doesn’t happen in reverse. I was nice and didn’t mention that no New Yorker was ever going to drive to Michigan. Anyway, though the Thruway may be getting loads of tax dollars for say, new asphalt, it doesn’t seem to be getting many funds in the way of nice printers for its fare tickets. Ours looked like this:

 

New York Thruway fare ticket

New York Thruway fare ticket

I won’t go into the usability of the design here, at least not today. Suffice it to say it was vaguely better than a butterfly ballot.

 

At any rate, we logged mile 710, pulling into the endlessly gaudy Seneca Nation Casino in Niagara Falls. We were at once swarmed by smiling, helpful valet service personnel, who gladly took our car and are, at this very moment, joyriding through Ontario. Little do they know we got complimentary wheel locks on our CR-V, which I’m sure will come in handy. If they blow my trip B odometer count, I’ll be pissed.

Where the buffalo roam

Okay, 310 mere miles later and no bison have been spotted. I was nervous this morning because the moving company had not informed us of when the truck was supposed to arrive today, and after making about 47 phone calls, I still was not any closer to having an ETA. One little threat to call their home office and the Better Business Bureau, however, generated a lot of phone traffic, and it just so happened that right then the truck driver and crew descended upon us and quickly began moving all of our personal possessions out on the sidewalk. 250 boxes, 5500 pounds of belongings, one light cleaning and two showers later we were in the car, heading…

Heading pretty much nowhere. From home to just past Baltimore took an hour and a quarter, one last “screw you” from the traffic in the DC metropolitan area. As if we hadn’t heard the whispers from the city enough, like the disembodied voice in the Amityville Horror: G-E-T  O-U-T.

 

Baltimore stovepipe somehow represents so much about the city

Baltimore stovepipe somehow represents so much about the city

 

 

iPod plugged in, cell phone in reach, tons of toll money, full tank of $4 gas, and we were ready for the sluggish traffic. Things cleared up in Delaware, after rush hour. We made a pit stop in New Jersey at Mastori’s Restaurant, this fabulous diner/restaurant in Bordentown that was a favorite of my parents’. Susanne ordered Baby Back ribs wholly unlike anything seen at Chili’s, and I ordered veal vantellani with cremini mushrooms. We ate our enormous piles of meat slowly, letting the realization that WE HAVE MOVED sink in. Our things are somewhere, with a dour guy from Seattle named Cliff, who is currently headed to Missouri. Too bad the boxes of our stuff can’t manage their own blog of their trip.

Best thing about New Jersey, other than the delightful cheese and cinnamon breads at the diner, was this:

 

Gas pump in Bordentown

Gas pump in Bordentown

Eat that, Washington. We actually got a better price, $3.43, for paying in cash. And that’s for full service, folks. 

We breezed through the Turnpike, dealing with more crazy drivers, though in somewhat less frequency than say, on Bladensburg Road in Northeast. My personal favorite was a driver who was weaving up 95 with plates that read “Relax.” Somehow being told to relax in fact elicited quite the opposite for me.

We’re here at my sister’s house now, a couple of drinks in us (yes, after we got out of the car), and waiting for the hot tub to get up to temperature. And then tomorrow is a new day. Our first day not living in DC.

Not yet ready for prime time

This blog will go live in August when we start our cross-country road trip. . . .